137 Pillars House Chiang Mai Review

137 PILLARS HOUSE CHIANG MAI, THAILAND

You can’t fake heritage. You can, of course, manufacture a pretty good substitute for the patina that time bestows, given enough money. But if you want the sense of authenticity that’s only accessible in a house where generations have lived and gone about their business, you’ll find the supply is strictly limited.

One such rarity is the distinctively named 137 Pillars House Chiang Mai. A collection of boutique luxury suites built around the historic teak house of the British Borneo Company, this unique property underwent an immaculate renovation in the early 2000s. The family that restored the building was determined not to erase its history even while converting it into one of northern Thailand’s most luxurious properties. They succeeded.

Former residents have included the son of Anna Leouwens – you may remember her from The King and I. Now we were about to add our names to the hotel register. What would we discover?

Situated in a beautifully laid out garden, the colonial-style residence is everything you’ve dreamed of. With just 30 lavish suites, you can revel in the exclusivity and tranquillity even though you’re just five minutes from Tha Pae Gate Market and a 10-minute drive from the centre of Chiang Mai.

Named after the pillars on which it perches, its rich teak construction harks back to a time when air conditioning was a breeze through the house. We loved the sumptuous furnishings and attention to detail in the design. At the same time, the latest technology has been sensitively integrated into the fit-out, so you enjoy all the comforts of modern life while living out your fantasy as a time traveller to a bygone age of slow travel.

We were booked into the Rajah Brooke Suite, and it was a revelation. Bespoke furnishings and herringbone native timber floors are beautifully crafted and coordinated while a high ceiling provides that extra feeling of space in a room that’s already 70sqm. Precious art complements the furnishings and super-sized balconies deliver welcome vistas, along with plenty of space in which to entertain. Relax and take in the surroundings, or dine al fresco – you’ll probably want to do both.

For this traveller, the bathroom is always a touchstone of true luxury. The amenities in 137 Pillars House were absolutely on point. There are feature walls of hand-painted ceramics with marble accents and a large freestanding tub along with the choice of an indoor rain shower or a romantic outdoor shower. Relax, refresh and rejuvenate.

After settling in and unpacking we were keen to experience the other parts of the property. The cocktail hour was close, so we made our way to the awesome in-house bar, Jack Bain’s. Commemorating a daring and colourful character in Chiang Mai’s history – one description summarised him as ‘a real-life Indiana Jones’ – Jack Bain’s eponymous bar is the place to sample some of the best cocktails you’ll find in Chiang Mai, if not Thailand as a whole.

There’s nothing quite like sitting in a tropical speakeasy, surrounded by antique furnishings, while an expert mixologist crafts the hotel’s aptly-named Signature Cocktail. It’s a secret blend of white rum, coconut liqueur and vodka served in a grilled coconut. The perfect way to start the evening.

Then it was onto dinner in The Dining Room, with its menu of dishes drawn from the region and designed to be shared. There are too many highlights to list but make a note to try their Tom Yum Goong soup and the northern Thai lamb shank curry, Gaeng Hung Lay Gae. We also have a soft spot for the coconut and cashew ice cream, served in a shell.

After a day’s sightseeing around Chiang Mai it was time to book in some R&R. The Nitra Spa & Wellness Centre at 137 Pillars House provided the perfect opportunity to recharge batteries and ease some travel-induced aches and pains. An expertly delivered Thai massage worked wonders, especially when combined with one of the luxurious face and body treatments in the Spa. There’s also a gorgeous 25-metre pool running the length of a plant-covered living wall, plus a glass-walled gym that’s impressively equipped for such a boutique resort.

Last, but absolutely not least, there are the people. You always expect smiling and gracious service when staying in a 5-star property, and the team at 137 Pillars House is up there with the very best. A special word of appreciation must go to our personal butler, Toto. He was on hand to cater to our very whim, which included advising on the best local coffee house. Toto made us feel right at home, and in that he was typical of all the employees we encountered during our stay.

We need more courageous and forward-thinking hoteliers like the people who created this stunning property. Not only did they see the potential in a neglected 19th century house, but they have transformed it into one of Thailand’s most luxurious boutique hotels without sacrificing its old-school charm. If you appreciate true luxury and wish to try an alternative to the cookie-cutter hotel chains, 137 Pillars House should be your go-to residence when visiting northern Thailand.