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THE OBEROI, BALI, SEMINYAK

Strange as it may seem today, Bali was once an unvisited island. Or perhaps it’s more accurate to say that only the fortunate few were able to book a Bali holiday. Where today you find luxury resorts, high-end shops and restaurants, there were rice fields, villages and temples. The rhythms of daily life held sway, punctuated by temple ceremonies.

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A few far-sighted jetsetters were able to spot the potential of this paradise. Starting in the early 1970s, names such as Mick Jagger and Princess Grace of Monaco were being wooed with the prospect of private villas in the then-obscure district of Seminyak, away from the bustle of Kuta. Australian architect Peter Muller oversaw the construction of an exclusive private club called Kayu Aya. Skilled Balinese craftsmen worked for more that two years to build a collection of sumptuous beachside villas that combined the traditions of Bali with the comforts of the West.

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In 1978 the private club concept was superseded by a new arrangement with Oberoi Hotels & Resorts. And thus was born The Oberoi, Bali, Seminyak.

The brief history lesson is important because it explains how the resort came to occupy such a prime piece of real estate. As the original luxury hotel on this beautiful expanse of beachfront, The Oberoi, Bali, Seminyak is the envy of all latecomers. Set in sprawling, manicured grounds, it enjoys the luxury of space in an area where every hectare is prized. Its graceful low-rise buildings, broken up by gardens, lily ponds and temples, convey the serene sense of living in a very beautiful village. You’re only minutes away from the smart shops and restaurants of bustling Seminyak, but you enjoy privacy, space and exclusivity.

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One intriguing feature is the presence of authentic Balinese Hindu temples dotted around the grounds. These are still in use. In addition, there’s an open-air amphitheatre where you can see performances of traditional Balinese dances.

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Peter Muller’s iconic architecture has been maintained and sensitively extended. The original villas have been supplemented by luxurious Lanai rooms, along with a spa and tennis court. All benefit from the painstaking craftsmanship of Bali’s finest carvers and artisans. It’s a look that’s somehow timeless and right up to date.

So, what are the impressions of a visitor in 2018? Here are mine...

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We were fortunate to book a one-bedroom private pool villa with the entire compound secluded behind an over-height feature stone wall. Upon entering, the ‘wow factor’ was confirmed by the presence of the largest private pool and outdoor living space I have ever seen in a villa of this nature. It all comes back to the foresight of the resort’s owners in securing such a large piece of real estate in a sought-after location.

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First impressions were underscored by the scenery. The raised outdoor pavilion with its own dining area provides an elevated view of the Indian Ocean surf just a few seconds away as the gull flies. Can you imagine a better setting for your evening cocktail or in-villa private dinner party? I can’t.

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Stepping inside, I was seriously impressed by the quality of interior. One of the beauties of Bali is its ancient traditions of stone carving, woodworking and furniture making. All the pieces inside our villa were finished to an immaculate standard, with ornate stonework, intricately carved native woods and precious marble. To my eye, this is the sort of fit-out that only improves with age. All the hotel management has to do is supplement this beautiful craftsmanship with the latest mod cons (as they have done), and every guest will feel like an aristocrat in his or her private palace.

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The netted four-poster bed was a particular favourite – a real statement piece. Coming a close second was the marble bathroom with its sunken bath and dedicated his and hers areas. Bali offers so much in terms of cultural stimulation and diversions, that being able to come home to such a relaxing space takes luxury to the next level.

With its unique setting and high-quality rooms, it will come as no surprise that the Oberoi sees a very high percentage of return visits. However, in my experience, it is the staff who are really responsible for this degree of loyalty. You may be impressed by the setting and quality of the design, but it’s the human touch that makes the difference. Plaudits must go to the delightfully warm and friendly staff members who attended to all our needs, and somehow seemed to know how to anticipate them. General Manager John Haplin has built a stellar team, and The Oberoi, Bali, Seminyak’s guests are the winners.

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All great hotels take cuisine very seriously, and The Oberoi, Bali, Seminyak is no exception. We were impressed with all the options, from the open-air Frangipani Café to the poolside pavilion that hosts the Kayu Bar. But for me, the absolute highlight was the signature fine-dining restaurant, Kura Kura.

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This thatched open-air space, named after the turtles that nest on the nearby sands, is decorated with traditional carvings and artefacts. Choose from a mix of Asian and Western delicacies, including house-smoked Tasmanian Salmon, Tandoori Jinga Prawns and Laksa Ikan (Indonesian fish soup). There’s nothing quite like soaking up the ambience of a warm Balinese night while gentle breezes cool your face and the waiter proffers a chilled bottle of Riesling to complement your spicy choices.

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As with everything else at this immaculately maintained boutique resort, the details all come together to create an unforgettable occasion. Thank the Balinese hosts, the five-star management team – and the visionary people who saw the possibilities of this stunning piece of coastline almost five decades ago.

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You will want to return. I know I do.

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