Like so many of the Orient-Express stable of hotels, no expense has been spared in a restoration lasting a staggering five years. Restoring this grand former palace to its original condition was an enormous undertaking. Ancient walls and fresco-covered ceilings having been carefully preserved and uncovered to make it a work of art in itself. It’s fascinating to think that over the years, many famous guests have been welcomed by the very same 18th century frescoes, the terrace framed by Norman arches, the park filled with pergolas, oleanders and wisteria and the two ancient stone lions guarding the entrance. Credit must be given to OrientExpress for investing the significant time and money required to undertake such a remarkable transformation. In doing so they have brought a once opulent palace back to life and in the process created a hotel like no other, packaged in a location that defies words. 

The boutique nature of the hotel, with only forty-eight rooms and suites affords its guests the ultimate in both privacy and service. In keeping with the uniqueness of the property, many of the same category rooms and suites vary in both size and design, depending on the location and floor level of the hotel. Rooms are spacious, especially in comparison to the other, rather limited five star options in the region and are beautifully appointed in a traditional Italian style. Understated and elegant, many also feature a balcony or spacious terrace to best capture the view.
 

Staying in the heart of Tuscany, you just know you’re going to eat well. The Belmond Villa San Michele has its own cooking school for those who wish to master pasta, but we were more in the mood to be served. La Loggia restaurant is, as you’d expect, situated in the building’s loggia. You enjoy quite remarkable views towards Florence while waiting for your meal, and when the meal arrives, the evening goes up yet another notch. If I could have sampled every classical Italian dish on the menu, I would have stayed for a fortnight. As it was, I enjoyed the best gnocchi I have ever tasted, made even better with one of the region’s loveliest red wines.

One of the other highlights of Hotel Caruso was the overall quality of the cuisine and the outstanding front of house service. Guests can choose between two restaurants, both affording peerless vistas of the Amalfi Coast: the Belvedere on the terrace is perfect for sunny days and warm evenings and the Caruso Restaurant, which boasts both a beautiful outdoor terrace and an elegant indoor dining room. The cuisine here is Mediterranean, the accent on time-honoured recipes from Naples and Southern Italy, revitalised with a contemporary twist by outstanding Executive Chef Mimmo di, who is spoilt for choice with the outstanding quality of local produce on offer. Featuring magnificent frescoes from the 18th century, the hotel bar is a perfect spot for a pre dinner drink. The Poolside Bar & Restaurant located beside the hotel’s world famous and much photographed infinity pool, was a personal favourite and where I enjoyed the best pizza I have ever had. Italians certainly know and appreciate great pizza and it’s not surprising that many rate this one of the finest in the land – honestly, worth a visit for this alone!

Opulent hotel, magical location, outstanding cuisine. But the other key ingredient to a truly unforgettable experience for me, is the people. The Orient Express name is synonymous with not only opulence, but a commitment to the absolute finest levels of customer service and some of the fondest memories of my stay were the passion and infectious enthusiasm of the hotel staff. Plaudits must be given to the charismatic leadership skill of General Manager, Franco Girasoli who seems born for such a role. Franco both leads and inspires a special team that provide a genuine warmth of hospitality that is so very rare. Service is precise and discrete, but the difference is that guests are made to feel comfortable and welcome without the forced formality and stiffness of some establishments in this quality category.  It’s also probably one of the main reasons why so many guests fall in love with this property, returning year after year. quite simply, you cannot visit the Amalfi Coast without staying in this hotel. It is an experience you will never forget and of the many hotels I have visited, Hotel Caruso Belvedere is now one of my favourites.